Cómo convertir la Hephestos 2 en Pro y no morir en el intento



  • @ukneil68 dijo:

    @expertdecisions Looking at the SKR 1.4 Turbo, it has 5 stepper connection, so I’m assuming I wouldn’t need that “thief” connector?
    On another note, I have stripped down one of my Hep2 machines, so I am ready for the tutorial, but I’m now having issues with my other machine. im constantly getting a clicking from my extruder, in fact, when I start to print, I get perfect layers, then after several hours, the nozzle clogs and the clicking starts. I’ve stripped it so many times, replaced the PTFE tubes, but I think it’s now to do with the tension. Is there any info about how far the adjustment screw needs to be set?

     About the clicking from the extruder I had the same problem. It was the gears from the extruder that were worn out. Bq support charge you 70€ for the gears so I would recomend go for a bmg. 



  • @Alfonso1 my only issue is now I don’t have a Printer to print the damn bracket to mount it 🤯

    I was looking at the Hemera, which may be a better option as it comes complete. 



  • @macuho Hi, my extruder has now packed up, can you share the .stl for that mount. Is there a provision for a BLTouch? What do i need to order, as i only want the original (not clone) What hot end would you recommend and do i need a new motor. if so which type?



     




  • @UKNeil68 

    The file I modified to put the original sensor, but the original file takes to put the BLTouch, for the Hotend the original E3D V6, motor you do not need a new one, just change the one of the extruder for the Y axis, which is how I have it , and solved that problem. Layer fan output I am redesigning it right now

    Hephestos 2 Extruder Macuho

    Translated by Google translator



  • @macuho great, let me know how you get on with it. How is it compared to the stock one?



  • @UKNeil68 It's another level, better retractions, temperatures, fewer marks on the filament, you can find spare parts anywhere, etc....



  • @expertdecisions si me referia al conexionado que sale de la cama, si, ya asumo que voy directo a placa (SKR) sin pasar por la casilla de MOSFET jeje a ver si es facil de localizar el par del termistor.

    Por otro lado no se como va lo del adaptador de 5 a 8 con bola. No es simplemente insertar la varilla hasta el tope que trae el adaptador, en mi caso?
    Yo solo preguntaba por el diametro total del mismo, de la pieza de aluminio en si, si puede tener alguna ventaja o desventaja usar uno mas "gordo" que el otro. O si es mejor no usarlos, directamente.



  • Mientras voy avanzando con el tutorial, dejo aquí el firmware ya que creo que está lo suficientemente pulido y probado y ya no pienso hacerle más modificaciones.
    Además del fichero firmware.bin ya compilado, he subido el Marlin completo para que podáis modificar a vuestro gusto.

    Recordad que está compilado para la SKR 1.3, la 1.4 tiene ligeras variaciones en la distribución de pines y requiere cambiar la descripción de la tarjeta para que funcione. Más sobre esto en el tutorial.

    Para cargar el firmware en la SKR, basta con insertar una tarjeta SD que contenga el fichero firmware.bin y apagar y encender la tarjeta o pulsar el reset, a partir de ese momento se carga el firmware y el fichero en la tarjeta queda renombrado a FIRMWARE.CUR

    Marlin completo para la Hephestos 2 y SKR 1.3


    fichero firmware.bin



  • @bolsoncerrado


    El eje y la varilla no deben de tocarse cuando están insertadas en el adaptador helicoidal. Por ello se usa el truco de la bola que impide que entre en contacto una con la otra sin perder la flexibilidad. Si se tocan eje y varilla el adaptador pierde su función de flexibilizar la union.

    Una imagen vale más que mil palabras ☺:

    En cuanto a las conexiones de la cama (que explico contado detalle en el tutorial), los pines están dispuestos en la forma
    CCTTCC donde C es calefactor y T termistor, hay que unir las dos C de la izquierda en un solo cable y lo mismo las de la derecha, así acabamos con solo cuatro cables, dos del calefactor y dos del termistor, esos elementos no tienen polaridad por lo que es igual invertir derecha con izquierda tanto en termistor como en calefactor.



  • @expertdecisions said: So if i'm using the SKR 1.4 Turbo, can i use the Marlin config you have used and alter it to a 1.4T? If i am also using the TMC2130, i understand they also need to be configured.

    Is it simply adding that Marlin config to the sd and plugging it to my pc via usb?


    Complete marlin for Hephestos 2 and SKR 1.3

     



  • @ukneil68 dijo:

    @expertdecisions said: So if i'm using the SKR 1.4 Turbo, can i use the Marlin config you have used and alter it to a 1.4T? If i am also using the TMC2130, i understand they also need to be configured.
    Is it simply adding that Marlin config to the sd and plugging it to my pc via usb?

    Complete marlin for Hephestos 2 and SKR 1.3
     

     The easiest procedure to load firmware in the SKRs, consist in placing the firmware.bin file in a SD card, insert the card into the SD slot in the SKR and then reboot it by switching off and on the power or by pressing the reset button. The matter is if you are using different version of SKR. All files I uploaded to my server are intended for SKR 1.3, and, as I also own some SKRs 1.4, when I have finished the tutorial, I'll prepare an addendum for version 1.4.
    Sorry to say no SKR turbo version presently available at home, so I do not know when I'll be able to create and verify a firmware version for SKR Turbo, it requires a slight different version of the firmware so you'll need to change the board name in the configuration file and to compile it in order to create a new firmware.bin file suitable for your SKR Turbo.
    FYI, I'm using  Atom with  Platformio to compile Marlin as SKRs are using a 32 bit processor (LPC series) which cannot be compiled with Arduino IDE . 



  • Gracias por el detalle del conexionado de la cama.

    En cuanto a los adaptadores helicoidales, los mios venian sin bola, simplemente tienen un tope interno cada uno :? Si veo que van muy mal los cambiare, pero por ahora me ha asombrado que las tuercas de laton tienen bastante juego contra la varilla roscada... veremos si no transmiten mucho artefacto a la impresion, sino tocara buscar sustitutas tambien. Las tuyas las pillaste por separado o te venian con las varillas? Tenian tanto juego? Intentare subir video del juego de las mias....



  • @bolsoncerrado


    Tengo varias impresoras 3D de diversas marcas; todas llevan varillas helicoidales de 8 mm trapezoides y, sí suelen tener un cierto backlash (muy poco) que se soluciona poniendo tuercas de latón con muelles antibacklash.(aka antideslizantes o antirretroceso)



  • @expertdecisions, but we will loose some z height with this. But probably worth the sacrifice 



  • @ukneil68 dijo:

    @expertdecisions said: So if i'm using the SKR 1.4 Turbo, can i use the Marlin config you have used and alter it to a 1.4T? If i am also using the TMC2130, i understand they also need to be configured.
    Is it simply adding that Marlin config to the sd and plugging it to my pc via usb?

    Complete marlin for Hephestos 2 and SKR 1.3
     

     The easiest way to load firmware in a SKR consiste in placing a copy of the firmware.bin file in a SD card, inserting the card into the SKR and power it; the SKR will load the firmware and if the load was successful, the file will be renamed to FIRMWARE.CUR.

    But the firmware.bin file I published is specially made for SKR1.3. If you own the SKR 1.4 Turbo version, then you'll need to create you own firmware.bin file. To do that you will need the complete marlin set of files I published plus a compiler, like Atom/Platformio. Also you will need to modify the config files to change the SKR 1.3 definitions to SKR Turbo, and after all, tell Atom to compile it for the LPC1769 which is the processor used by Turbo version (Non turbo version uses the LPC 1768. This process will generate a new firmware.bin file specially created for your Turbo version.
    It sounds more complicated than it really is but explaining it is presently farther beyond of my tutorial, (Anyway there are some good tutorials  around Internet how to do it). Nevertheless  if I can get a SKR Turbo, I'll be very glad to prepare, create and test a firmware.bin for that version . But presently The only boards I'have at home are SKR 1.3 and SKR 1.4



  • @ukneil68 dijo:

    @expertdecisions, but we will loose some z height with this. But probably worth the sacrifice 

    Yeah, take in account you already are loosing 10 mm in Z height due to the printed adapters for the 8 mm rods. If you install anti backlash nuts you will add about 5-10  mm more (depending on the model)   to the height loss, anyway, loosing 20 mm of the to tal Z Volume its not a big loss and, as you say, it worths.



  • Ya voy por la pagina 13 del tutorial, no creo que me falten muchos días, paciencia.
    Para hacerlo compresible hay que poner mucha imagen y diagramas y pintar eso requiere su tiempo



  • Tengo curiosidad por saber que has hecho con los cables de los motores Y y Z jejeje 🙂



  • @bolsoncerrado dijo:

    Tengo curiosidad por saber que has hecho con los cables de los motores Y y Z jejeje 🙂

     El cable Y cambiarlo por uno que he hecho a medida, pero podría haberlo alargado que es lo que explico en el tuto.

    El Z, al tener que usar un splitter, no ha sido necesario



  • @expertdecisions Have you uploaded the files for the 1.4. We can then edit them for the Turbo board. I cant get the firmware.bin to open in Platformio, can that be edited for the Turbo board?